However, out of all the AHAs available, glycolic and lactic acids are the most promising and well researched. These two AHAs are also less likely to cause irritation. AHAs are primarily used to exfoliate your skin. In fact, this is the foundation for all of the other benefits AHAs offer. Exfoliation refers to a process where the skin cells on the surface shed off.
This helps remove dead skin cells but also makes way for new skin cell generation. As you age, your natural skin cell cycle slows down, which can make dead skin cells build up. When you have too many dead skin cells, they can accumulate and make your complexion look dull. Still, not all AHAs have the same exfoliating power. The amount of exfoliation is determined by the type of AHA you use. As a rule of thumb, the more AHAs contained in a product, the more powerful the exfoliating effects.
This peel contains glycolic acid and may be used up to two times per week for best results. When these acids exfoliate your skin, dead skin cells are broken down. The new skin revealed beneath is brighter and more radiant. AHAs with glycolic acid can help break down skin cell accumulation, while products with citric acid can brighten your skin even further.
It contains citric acid and aloe vera gel for both brightness and soothing effects. Collagen is a protein-rich fiber that helps keep your skin plump and smooth. As you age, these fibers break down. Sun damage may also accelerate collagen destruction. This can result in sallow, sagging skin. Collagen itself is in the middle layer of your skin dermis.
When the upper layer epidermis is removed, products such as AHAs can go to work on the dermis. AHAs may help promote collagen production by destroying old collagen fibers to make way for new ones. AHAs are known for their anti-aging effects, and surface lines are no exception. One study reported that 9 out of 10 volunteers who used AHAs over a three-week period experienced significant improvements in overall skin texture.
Professional fillers from a doctor, as well as other procedures such as laser resurfacing, are the only methods that work for deep wrinkles. Try this daily glycolic acid serum by Alpha Skin Care to reduce the look of surface lines and wrinkles.
AHAs have anti-inflammatory properties that can help promote blood flow to the skin. This can help correct pale, dull complexions. Proper blood flow also ensures that skin cells get the necessary nutrients needed via oxygen-rich red blood cells. To improve dull skin and related lack of oxygen, try out this daily serum from First Aid Beauty.
Your risk for skin discoloration increases with age. For example, flat brown spots, known as age spots lentigines , may develop as a result of sun exposure. They tend to develop on areas of the body that are exposed to the sun most often, such as your chest, hands, and face.
AHAs promote skin cell turnover. New skin cells are evenly pigmented. In theory, long-term use of AHAs may reduce skin discoloration by encouraging the old, discolored skin cells to turn over. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends glycolic acid for discoloration. A more intense treatment can help, too, such as this citric-acid mask from Mario Badescu. She suggests that you avoid combining AHAs and retinol because they are both exfoliants that can irritate your skin.
Linker is a fan of glycolic acid and says it helps shrink the appearance of pores, is "pregnancy-safe" and can help treat melasma. Cheung admits it's hard for her to choose a favorite type of AHA. However, she prefers lactic acid since it's "more versatile, better tolerated and more hydrating than glycolic acid.
Cheung calls this AHA serum one of her favorites and notes that it is "very popular" at her practice to prevent and treat maskne, aka breakouts caused by wearing a face mask.
Since the percentage of glycolic acid is high, the fragrance-, sulfate- and phthalate-free foam cleanser works best with oily skin.
It also includes two percent lactobionic acid , a patented antioxidant derived from sugar to help improve skin texture, tone and signs of aging. Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York, is a fan of this "very gentle" exfoliator. King calls this an "effective exfoliator that is a source of natural Alpha-Hydroxy Acids that help remove dead skin cells and evens skin pigmentation.
King recommends this alcohol-free toner that is a blend of six acids — phytic, malic, gluconolactone, lactic, salicylic and citric acids — which together exfoliates, clarifies and brightens the skin.
There's also niacinamide or Vitamin B3 to "improve tone and texture and support the skin barrier to keep moisture locked-in," she says. Joshua Zeichner , MD, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital, also recommends this "non-irritating" toner.
King is also a fan of this budget-friendly toner with anti-inflammatory properties, including chamomile and witch hazel, which also helps to shrink the pores' appearance. She says this toner is best for oily skin because the combination of glycolic and lactic acids exfoliates and removes excess oil.
Zeichner recommends this face scrub that is non-comedogenic, meaning it doesn't clog pores. Instead, glycolic and salicylic acids help remove oil and dead cells that build up around the pores to minimize their appearance. The soap-free exfoliator is gentle enough for you to use daily, although you may want to consider introducing it into your skin care routine a few times a week to start to be sure that your skin can tolerate the scrub.
Zeichner also suggests this drugstore find which "combines citric and glycolic acid with a soy and kiwi complex to exfoliate and brighten the skin. Remember, too, to be mindful of the other active ingredients such as retinols and antioxidants in your skincare line-up.
As a rule of thumb, she says that on the days you choose to include AHAs in your routine, avoid products containing vitamin C and retinol immediately after, allowing your skin to work with a single active ingredient at a time, therefore reducing the risk of overstimulation causing adverse reactions. A pH of 1 is highly acidic, and a pH of 14 is highly alkaline.
Water is measured as having a pH of 7. Our skin is naturally slightly on the acidic side, with a pH of around For example, lactic acid has a pKa of 3. So this tells you what pH the acid needs to be in order to donate or take a proton.
When you are working with acids in skincare products, you can put a percentage in of say, 10 per cent lactic acid pKa 3. In short, adjusting the pH level of a product that contains a skincare acid will affect the degree and speed with which it travels through the stratum corneum.
This is also why professional peels tend to have a lower pH than at-home options. This gentler iteration of Dr. Dennis Gross' popular Alpha Beta Peel treatment was designed for sensitive skin, but Mackenzie Paterson recommends it for all skin types — especially those new to AHA products.
This BHA toner is the original — and still the best — for clearing breakouts. This will only break down your skin barrier, and then cause a plethora of other skin issues. Acids are now available in almost any product form, from cleansers to creams and treatment masks.
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